Sandra y Mick
Agosto/Septiembre 2024
Salamanca to Ponte de Lima
Preamble
Firstly we have to acknowledge the invaluable caminotorres.com website and the WikiLocs navigation… brilliant, thank you so much Luis Quintales.
Also to whoever put/painted the old and new arrows along the way - Muchas Gracias!!
And also all of the insights in this thread and on the Camino Torres Facebook group have been so helpful.
It’s very hot and dry out here and there is hardly any water flowing in the rivers/stream - so no precarious water crossings so far!!
Day 1 - La Rad
Appreciate of this option off the Camino, (pre-booked) great staff at hotel, gas station shop (Servo for us Australians!) has everything you need for supplies next day, even baked fresh bread at 7 in the morning. Got lucky with flamenco music concert set up outside that night … starting at 10.30pm of course!! Bar open early for breakfast.
Day 2 - Robliza de Cojos
WhatsApp-ed Cristina the day before to let her know we are coming. Texted when we arrived - she was fantastic. Basic albergue, everything you need, blankets .. big backyard. Great store “Arcophorum” (not on the map) run by very helpful woman - was open in the late afternoon. Bar at municipal swimming pool was able to make us a meal - After our swim!
Day 3 - San Muñoz
WhatsApp-ed Amalia the day before to let her know we are coming. Beers at Bar Chan on arrival in village - run by the lovely Fernando. Organised to have evening meal there later. Prudencia (Amalias sister) met us at Albergue - great kitchen set-up, bedroom to ourselves, Ukrainian family still living there but were away for a few days. Later Prudencia took us for a tour of the town - inside the church, around plaza and down to the river where there is a huge community garden (supplied us with salad for the next day!) Introduced us to everybody - Pilgrims still a novelty on this route!
Day 4 - Alba de Yeltes
WhatsApp-ed Aurora the day before to let her know we are coming. Albergue is lovely and Aurora takes great care and attention of us pilgrims. Invites us to play Pétanque at 6.30pm!! Bar Nilo in town open for a drink but again all the action is at the municipal swimming pool! Dinner available and bocadillo organised for next day.
Day 5/6 - Ciudad Rodrigo
Too early for services in Bocacara. Well supplied from bar last night. Stayed at Hostal Parque Florida (great breakfast!) just outside wall - close to Physio and Centro de Salud (both provided excellent much needed medical intervention -?we’re blaming recently finishing the Primitivo!!). Spent 2 nights here to recuperate… well worth it, beautiful city and a lot to explore.
Day 7 - Gallegos de Argañán
Hard to leave Ciudad Rodrigo - although shortish walk to Gallegos. Went to Ayuntamiento to get key - a few phone calls and we were on our way. Building still mid-renovation so a bit of a building site. Albergue downstairs very basic, new beds and blankets though and plenty of space. Shop down road for all supplies.
Off to the municipal swimming pool again for dinner !!
Day 8 - Aldea del Obispo
Had WhatsApp-ed Felipe night before. Late start - another short day due to not being able to get accommodation in Almeida (it’s their Fiesta weekend!!) . Cafe Bar Arroyo open for a coffee and the owner insisted on giving us a sello… best one yet! Stopped by a finca 3km out of Aldea and elderly couple invited us over and we left with 2 melons… weighing approx 2kg each.!!!! Felipe found us having our arrival beer at the bar and escorted us to the magnificent Albergue. Sheets, towels, blankets and an incredible kitchen! All for 10€. There is a local worker currently living here too - although he’s away this weekend. Dinner in tonight. Great little supermercado past Manalo Bar near edge of town.
Continuing on the Torres - getting used to-… relying on WikiLocs, .. long distances between services, staying in private accommodation… But miss the albergue world!!
Day 9 - Almeida
Late start - only doing 12 km. Crossing into Portugal today - Lovely stop at Cafe a Forja in Vale de Mula. Almeida on last day of it’s month long historical festival - so town was full of markets, pageantry and exhibitions. Beautiful walled city worth spending time here to explore. Stayed in a basic hotel on edge of town - on Camino.
Day 10 - Pinhel
23km day - walked to Vale Verde and tried our luck at the grocery store to get a drink - thought it was closed but owner came out and insisted on making us a coffee for his own kitchen. On to O Pereiro where the famous Dona Maria Julieta looked after us in her cafe. Feeling very spoilt today. To top it all off we couldn’t get accommodation in Pinhel so on the advice of the tourist information Centre stayed at the Bombieros.
Day 11 - Trancoso
Left early - 31km day. First stop Cafe Zita in Valbom. No other services for rest of the day. We always carry the obligatory can of tuna, bread, fruit, nuts, chocolate! Passed through some very quiet villages - went off track and ended up climbing a few fences to get back on route. Long climb up to town toward the the castle. Stayed in private accommodation right in centre. Many businesses closed for a rest after busy tourist season?? Ate at Mercearia do Fardinho in main square who are keen supporters of the Camino. Contacted Albergue in Beira Valente to ask about staying in 2 days time.
Day 12 - Sernancelhe
27km - Out early expecting to get a coffee somewhere along the way - Nothing open or available in the next 3 villages, a good reminder to not rely on anything being open on this Camino!! Pine forests dominated today - with the occasional chestnut trees! Sernancelhe was very quiet - few cafes and restaurants open. Can recommend Tasquina Do Mario. Private accommodation up near the castle.
Day 13 - Beira Valente
23km day. First 4km to Vila da Ponte for breakfast on River Tavora before a big climb up towards “A Nossa Senhora das Neccesidades” . Moved through many quiet villages - all merging together. Shop at the big Intermarche supermarket on edge of Moimenta da Breira for food to cook tonight. Albergue is absolutely fantastic - towels, blankets, great kitchen, beautiful location. Make sure you ask about how to get the keys!!
Day 14 - Lamego
First really cold morning! Surrounded apple orchards - picking seasoning in full flight. Rest stop at Granje Nova for coffee at Cafe Central for authentic Portuguese experience! Even charged my unreliable phone for me. Medieval bridge and tower at Ucanha also worth a stop - it’s a slow 27km today! Plenty of uphill in the last 2 hours - and delightful bridge into the old city with a quick stop at a traditional barber for a beard trim.. ( not me!) Happened to be last weekend of Lamego’s 3 week festival so we were lucky to find ourselves in the right place at the right time. The town was buzzing! Found the best Caldo Verde too.
Day 15 - Peso da Regua
Short 12km day to break up this stage. Out amongst the grapevines - lots of picking going on. Passed through a few villages and Sande - nothing open(?) - crossover with Portuguese Central Camino…. Didn’t see anyone, in fact haven’t seen another pilgrim the whole time. The metropolis of Peso da Regua was a long slow downhill. It’s a river cruise / campervan stop-over so the place was heaving with tourists!
Day 16 - Mesão Frio - 16km
Lovely start along the Duoro followed by a very steep climb out of Peso da Regua. Lots of road walking although it’s a Sunday so we are lucky there’s not much traffic. Bar open in Oliveira - 8km in. No shops open on Sunday afternoon to buy food for tomorrow!!
Art cafe open for dinner.
Day 17 - Amarante - 27km
Early start knowing we had the highest climb of the Torres 9km in today. Gentle gradient all the way to Teixeira - bar open for coffee! Mixture of road, gravel and sandy rocky tracks take us up to 800m. Longest downhill of this Camino too!! Lots of road walking and a lot of traffic today. Follow route closely on WikiLocs (Luis suggested diversion) - a lot of time spent on phone - make sure you bring a charger!! Staying right on the Camino in old town - Covolo Suites.
Emailed and phoned Albergue in Pombeiro de Ribavizela today - no response yet.
Day 18 Pombiero - 25km
Slow climb out of Amarante - urban environment but still always interesting . Coffee at Bar Mandu in Lixa. Hot slow walk toward Felgueiras…Watch out for new major road construction coming out of Moure right near Restaurant Lagoas … blocks the Camino route entirely - we had to walk through the building site under the direction of a worker (?).
Made phone call for tonight’s albergue - my garbled Portuguese managed to agree to email again to confirm arrangements (we both translated back and forth with email!) The extra 4km past was worth it - to see the monastery and to stay in Pombeiro. Bartholomew - the town president met us at Albergue (it’s a great place) and made us very welcome. Cafe Miraduoro couldn’t have been more hospitable for dinner and breakfast at 7 the following morning.
Day 19/20 Guimarães - 14km
Easy walk to reconnect with the Camino - some road walking before the luxury of the bike path for 6+ km. Stocked up on snacks at Lidl before arriving at the castle! 2 nights in Guimarães was fantastic - a lot to see and do, Castle, Palace, Museum, REST! Great little bar right in the square - “Pintado de Fresco” was friendly, relaxed, welcoming.
Day 21 - Braga - 20km
Slow gentle 8km walk to Caldas das Tapias - great patisserie for breakfast!
Climbing after this to Santuario de Santa Maria Madalena - good rest stop. Confusion about route - seems to be a road barrier/guard rail across entrance to path(?). Eventually worked it out - climbed over it and headed down the path to the right. Great views in to Braga - seemed to take forever to get there though!! Sent email, WhatsApp and phoned Albergue in Goães. They phoned back later in day…. “Said no problem - back door is open!”
Day 22 - Goães - 20km
Breakfast at fantastic municipal market! Had customary Pastel de Nata! Enjoyed walk through labyrinth of suburbia to Ponte de Prado. Places to stop for coffee. Slight uphill through eucalyptus trees.
Albergue in fantastic location (500m off Camino) - great kitchen, spacious , 12 beds. Checked ourselves in! Other organisation share the facility and use kitchen. We brought our own food to cook. Nothing open/available in village.
Day 23 - Ponte de Lima - 17km
Easy to get back to route from Albergue. Delightful early morning walk through gentle hills and countryside. 8km coffee at unopened restaurant Casa Antigua …. They saw our desperate faces and invited us in! Ponte de Lima Albergue opens at 3 … first time we’ve queued for a bed - not used to it!!! Over and Out from the Camino Torres - it’s been quite the adventure!!
