@gracethepilgrim
September 2024
Salamanca to Braga
Preamble
Timing is a little ‘after the fact’ but now home and relaxed, I’ve written up my notes to pass on a personal account of the wonderful Camino Torres.
Thanks so much to Luis Q and his amazing work on this spectacular camino.
Special appreciation goes to my ‘WhatsApp support crew’ @peregrina2000, @amsimoes and Luis for your encouragement and helpful tips as I walked.
I began the Torres at Salamanca and walked until Braga. From this point I changed to the Caminho Geira e dos Arreiros until Santiago to complete the ‘triple’ (Nascente/Torres/Geira) that I started in 2021.
If you are considering the Camino Torres, head over to Luis’ website for your preliminary planning and GPS tracks (caminotorres.com). Although written in Spanish, you can find current updated contact details for the albergues and other accommodation options by reviewing each stage.
It’s prudent to plan accommodation 2-3 days in advance.
Please note that the kms presented below are approximate, but pretty close.
Day 1. Salamanca - Robliza de Cojos
Date: Sept13
Distances: Salamanca (15km taxi to) La Rad – (17km walk to) Robliza de Cojos
Stay
Robliza de Cojos albergue 10€,
Current hospitalera is Cristina (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com)
Easy communication via whatsapp
Walk
After 2 days of international travel, I decided to cut the first day (32km) down by taking a taxi to La Rad. From there it was a short couple of km to meet up with the camino, very easy. So by 7:30 I was already out into the wonderful summery golden farmland. Surprisingly for this time of year, it was very chilly early in the morning but did heat up later in the day. A very easy walk, fairly straight and a lovely initiation to the Cañada Real. Enjoyed the meander with the pretty white cows, bulls in the distance, black Iberian piggies and drying saggy sunflowers. What gave me regular giggles were the small metal signs attached to fences warning of dire consequences should you dare pick a ‘shroom.
Arriving in Robliza, I was eagerly expecting the local pool bar to be open but unfortunately ‘summer’ was over and it was closed for ‘renovations’. There is a lovely little basic shop called Arcophorum, on LHS before you get to the albergue. Cristina had left a key out for me at the albergue, an old school. Very simple but hot shower and 2 single beds.
Not so much to do here but lie on the grass next to the church or head back to Arcophorum for some bread, fruit and tinned fish for dinner. Oh, and a nice coffee and chat with the locals gathered for news updates. Exit the next day is to the RHS of the shop.
Day 2. Robliza de Cojos - San Muñoz
Date: Sept14
Distance: 20 km
Stay
San Muñoz albergue 10€
Current hospitaleras Amalia and her sister Prudencia. (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com)
Easy communication via WhatsApp
Walk
At this time of year, the sunrise in Spain is around 7:30 and still chilly.
A day of similar scenery, very meditative along the Cañada Real. The only excitement came when a wee Bodeguero (Spanish Jack Russell) decided my ankles would make a delicious snack. Walking pole remediation.
San Muñoz is another very small village inhabited by the elders who continue to hold strong in their ancestral homes as the younger ones leave for the bright lights. The only action in town is Bar Chan, with random opening hours. If you let the hospitaleras know that you’d like a meal, they can pre-arrange with the bar. It’ll be simple but filling wink The only place to stay is the albergue, which is shared with a family who live there permanently. They are very respectful of pilgrims and explain the shared spaces.
Day 3. San Muñoz – Alba de Yeltes
Date: Sept15
Distance: 28 km
Stay
Alba de Yeltes albergue 10€
Current hospitalera Aurora (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com)
Easy communication via WhatsApp
Walk
The first 5km are on a quiet road then back on the Cañada. For me it was a wonderful treat to encounter 2 baby deer meandering through the trees. Today becomes a little more interesting with some steep climbs and river crossings. September, (woop woop) all the rivers were dry so no wading necessary. More agriculture today, some amazing Toros Bravos, sheep and more black pigs. Towards the end of the stage near the Rio Yeltes, I navigated using the official GPS tracks. I did not see any arrows in this area but the official tracks got me to where I needed to be. [hint] I believe there may be a shortcut here when the river is dry.
On arrival to Alba de Yeltes I stopped at the welcoming Bar Nilo for a refreshing beer while waiting for Aurora. She met me and accompanied me to the albergue, 100m away. It is a very comfy space to the side of the community centre. Clean and tidy and even a coffee machine…. morning bliss. There is a bakery in town and I only saw Bar Nilo open. I visited on a Sunday so not sure what other facilities are there. Bar Nilo will feed you and also make a takeaway meal if you ask, but they normally only serve bar snacks for the locals. I was very appreciative that they are willing to care for pilgrims.
Day 4. Alba de Yeltes – Ciudad Rodrigo
Date: Sept16
Distance: 26 km
Stay
Ciudad Rodrigo, 47€ Antigua Audiencia
Contact number +34 615079495 Maria Jesus to book direct, tell her you are a pilgrim
Easy communication via whatsapp
Lovely room overlooking the square
Walk
The first village @7km Bocacara was still sound asleep, café closed. Onto a wide path. A day of cork, oak and scrub. Starting to get a bit more hilly then a wide sandy road in to Ciudad Rodrigo. A lovely town to visit…. walled city with an interesting sizeable cathedral and a Parador (ask to climb the tower for awesome views). A wonderful evening spent filling up on delicious Spanish food and wine.
Day 5. Ciudad Rodrigo – Aldea del Obispo
Date: Sept17
Distance: 28 km
Stay
Aldea del Obispo albergue 10€
Current hospitalero: Felipe (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com)
Easy communication via whatsapp
Walk
I’d decided to walk the longer 28km today rather than a short day 16km to Gallegos de Arganan (albergue). My reason for this was to attempt to see the next two star forts at Fuerte Concepcion (just outside Aldea) and the next day in Almeida (the best Star fort on this camino). So today was a long day, heralded by a beautiful blood orange moon.
A nice gravel road led me into Gallegos for the first coffee of the day. Look for Bar Aroyo hidden to left when you reach the school. I believe it normally opens around 10am but I was lucky to find the owner had unlocked a bit earlier. Next section to Almeda de Gardon is on a newly sealed road, almost devoid of traffic, although I did meet an elderly farmer walking his equally elderly dog. Later in the stage, there is a wonderful walk where I ran into cattle shenanigans…. very friendly (harmless) and fond of following pilgrims at quite a speed (them, not me giggle)
I met Felipe in Bar Rincon de Segunda, the only open bar in the village. Good wine, ok Menu del dia, great company. Lovely albergue, I was given my own room as there is lovely guy, Rafa from Columbia, who sleeps there as well. He works in the windfarms on weekdays and returns home to his family in weekends. Very tidy and considerate of pilgrims. We had a great chat.
Sadly, the Fuerte Concepcion star fort is locked down, you cannot enter now. It was converted into a hotel, now closed.
Day 6. Aldea del Obispo – Almeida
Date: Sept18
Distance: 13 km
Stay
Almeida, 35€ Morgado Hotel (Booking.com)
Late checkin at 2pm but go to the attached restaurant to the LHS and the staff will let you leave your bags.
Eat ‘menu’ at the pink Bar Francisco, just outside the Star Fort town walls.
Walk
Today I crossed the border to Portugal so gained an hour. Woopy, late start, short day and an extra hour to explore gorgeous Almeida. At the first village across the border, a sweet little ‘old man style’ bar was open in Vale da Mula. Sadly no Pastel de Nata but a super strong café duplo made up for it. Very easy walk mainly on fine gravel farm tracks, the next 2 hours flew by.
Almeida is a wonderful example of a Star fort. Very well preserved, the locals are house proud and a wander inside the walls will keep you busy for a couple of hours. There are some interesting historic sites to stop by and visit so make sure to visit the tourist centre just inside the main wall entrance for a map. I meandered around the old royal stables Picadeiro del Rey and noticed several tour groups taking carriage rides (not for me).
The walls were a highlight and I spent a fair amount of time wandering around atop them, enjoying the views into the distance and imagining life some hundreds of years ago.
There is a strange ‘museum’ that was more impressive for the actual building (check out the roof construction), the original storage galleries. Bonus find, a ‘sweet’ little café/pastry shop selling delicious Pasteis de nata and many other yummies. Poll: do you think that 2 Pasteis de nata at one time is excessive pilgrim behaviour?
Day 7. Almeida - Pinhel
Date: Sept19
Distance: 24 km
Stay
Pinhel, 63€ Casa do Praca (+351 969465553 Suzete or +351 963084297 Pedro)
Gorgeous renovated old home right on the plaza. Lovely breakfast, wonderful hosts.
Eat a very high quality / well priced ‘menu’ at restaurant Skylab.
Walk
In Portugal, the quality and quantity of signage rapidly diminishes.
Interesting countryside now with more greenery, rivers and the accompanying hills. First village Valverde was ‘closed’ (no bar) and I eagerly continued to the famous bar Maria Julieta in O’Pereiro to meet with the lovely pilgrim-friend Julieta. She is getting on in years and seemed weary. What a treat to sit with her and write a note in her beloved pilgrim diary…. Not until she had made me a couple of coffees and a fresh melty-cheese bread roll. Such a treasure and definitely one of those ‘special pilgrim moments’ on the Torres.
Pinhel is a quiet town but seems to be on a tourist trail as I counted 2 tourist offices with a total of 8 staff ….. and I was the only visitor that day. Do visit the towers in the old walls and learn about the falcon emblem of the town from the ladies in the turismo wink
Day 8. Pinhel – Trancoso
Date: Sept20
Distance: 35 km
Stay
Trancoso, 35€ Dom Denis (+351 963242455) Basic, clean. They will drop off a ‘brekky bag for the morning if you wish.
Eat ‘menu’ at Portas d’el Rei (lots of locals).
A MUST visit in the evening is the Tasca Tipica Bar Castico (in a little side street, ask a local). Wonderful food and local wines.
Walk
The weather had packed in and I started out in heavy rain. It seemed sensible to walk on quiet roads rather than the muddy tracks. Just after Valbom I turned right to Santa Eufemia, then Sorval (café open on the road!) then joined the camino again in Povoa. About 2km past here (just after the Rio Massueime) there is a rough track steep uphill to the right. Continue for a couple of kms and you meet up with the main camino track again. Beautiful country today, grapes and quince trees.
Keep going to Trancoso… you’ll make it. Very cute town to wander and enjoy a slow afternoon/evening with great food and wine.
Day 9. Trancoso - Sernacelhe
Date: Sept21
Distance: 28 km
Stay
Sernacelhe, 42€ Casa do Castelo (+351 929301330 or +351 926577000). Built into the old wall, lovely modern room.
Eat at Tasquinha do Mario for absolutely wonderful food. Ask a local for directions, it’s tucked behind the church.
The pastelaria very close to the castle walls sells pastries and coffee.
Walk
Begin the day in a pine forest which includes many more steepish sections ~ without arrows (GPS mandatory here). Lots of variety today, my favourite being the bleak tussock walk bordered with giant boulders. Lots of aldeas and villages but all seemed devoid of life (and more importantly, coffee). A very long morning to Ponte do Abade where I found no café open. sad face So I asked a local and was directed off-piste to a small cerveceira run by a delightful 90yo man. He made me a super coffee and sent me on my way with grapes. It was a very sweet pilgrim experience as he opened up especially for me.
Onward through the delightful chestnut trail to Sernacelhe where I refuelled in the wonderful Tasquinha do Mario and rested.
Day 10. Sernacelhe – Beira Valente
Date: Sept22
Distance: 25 km
Stay
Beira Valente, Albergue 12€ (Local council +351 938183650 or +351 964089997)
Paulo or another staff member will explain where the key is hidden ~ in Portuguese eek
Walk
Pretty path with chestnuts, soft pine needles and apple orchards. Early morning Vila do Ponte was still sleeping (no bars open). A steep walk up to Nossa Senhora das Necessidades, also quiet and all locked up. In Prados da Cima I finally hit a café, Bar Antonio on the left.
Lots of ‘travel candy’ today with figs, grapes and apples. There are some pretty little villages, one I especially liked is A Rua.
Onwards to Moimenta da Beira where I encountered an ‘Apple Fiesta’ so plenty of delicious food stalls to enjoy and wait for my friends to arrive. I stopped here for lunch with Camino friends Aurelio and Rita from Lisbon.
It’s another 4km to Beira Valente albergue where I stayed the night, making the next day to Lamego a bit shorter.
Day 11. Beira Valente – Lamego
Date: Sept23
Distance: 25 km
Stay
Lamego, Res. Solar de Sé 45€ (+351 254612060 ask for balcony facing the cathedral). Basic room but lovely view of the cathedral. Very central.
Eat: look for Casa Rodrigues, a deli/café with a wonderful menu
Walk
A lot of apple orchards with espaliered trees, picking by hand on very tall ladders.
No issues with dogs today.
Many coffee stops; Granja Nova, Ucanha, after Mos, Britiande…
Lamego is a lovely small city to wander and enjoy the student vibe and pretty architecture.
Day 12. Lamego – Peso da Regua
Date: Sept24
Distance: 13 km
Stay
Peso da Regua, Res. Douro 54€ (+351 910681550). Basic room, but clean. It is on the far side of PdR, closer to the Torres exit.
Eat: nearby Res. Douro there are several local style bars. There is a Tasquinha with a great menu, walk out the door to the right of accommodation, in 30m at the corner cross over the road and its right there.
Walk
Another rainy day and unfortunately I discovered that my poncho had ‘removed itself’ from the side pocket of my pack. My light rain jacket and plastic bags made a temporary solution. Not at all elegant but functional giggles This is the second time I’ve walked in this area (previously on the CPI) and I love it so much. The deep valley with river crossing is a delight. A fair amount of climbing and returning back down the other side.
It’s goodbye to the apples today and hello to the Douro vineyards and accompanying production warehouses.
As a touristy town, the accommodation options in PdR are ‘up there $$$’. Loads of lovely cafes and restaurants. By venturing away from the centre, you’ll find more ‘local’ style places.
Day 13. Peso da Regua - Mesão Frio
Date: Sept25
Distance: 15km [then taxi to Amarante]
Stay
Amarante, Hostel & Suites des Arts 60€ via Booking.com. Best room and most comfy bed of the entire camino.
Wonderful café/bar downstairs.
Walk
Planning on only walking to Mesão Frio, I departed slightly later than usual so I could make the steep steep steep climb in daylight. The café under the Res. Douro was open early so I was sufficiently coffee fuelled. The reward is the view back down over PdR and then as you continue on, a magnificent vista over the sunbathed valleys of green and gold vines.
It was drizzling on and off so I struggled with my cheap replacement poncho bought in PdR from the farm supplies. Yes, this is definitely the Queen stage of the Torres; the beauty of this land was highlighted as the scene became bathed in early morning sunlight. Some challenging ups and downs, much on quiet roads and farm tracks. Although the rain had stopped by Mesão Frio, the dark clouds were menacing and storms forecast. In addition, the recent forest fires had been through the camino route between here and Amarante. Unsure of whether the track would be navigable, I ate a lovely meal at Tasca do Zequinha in MF and contemplated the options …
I decided to taxi to Amarante and wait out the storm there. The taxi driver pointed out to me the burnt out forest …. so perhaps I made a good move.
Amarante is gorgeous, I ventured out a little in between showers.
Day 14. Amarante – Pombeiro de Ribavizela
Date: Sept26
Distance: 24km (Felgueiras) + 4km (Pombeiro de Ribavizela)
Stay
Pombeiro albergue, no charge opened in 2021 in old school 1km from the monastery. No kitchen but hot water and plenty of beds. Current hospitalero is friendly local ‘mayor’ Bartolomeu, jfpombeiro@sapo.pt (contact number on the website, caminotorres.com). Easy communication via whatsapp +351 911803863
Eat: best to take your own food if you like an evening meal. There is a café/bar on the left 100m up the little hill from the alb, serving very basic tapas and drinks. Super lovely.
Walk
Another day of dodging rain and trying to manage reading damp GPS on my phone. Most of the day is gently uphill to Lixa, on cobbles and fairly quiet roads. Onwards to Felgueiras where my plan was to stop for lunch. I was pleased to find the Fabrica de Pao de Ló de Magaride open for a short impromptu tour. The building is spectacular: absolutely must see. (No bread for sale though).
A wonderful lunch at the nearby Tasquinha da Lapa, and onwards to the Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Pombeiro. Here, I was fortunate to be treated to a short recital on the organ by Bruno the security guard. Thanks to @peregrina2000 for the info.
After the visit I walked to the albergue which was a little hard to find – it is marked on the official GPS so head towards that spot. There is no signage but it is on the corner of the main road and a little side road, green door, metal closed gate. Bartolomeu let me in and checked that the water was hot. It’s basic but lovingly cared for and provided by the community. A big hug and thanks to Bartolomeu.
Day 15. Pombeiro de Ribavizela – Guimarães
Date: Sept27
Distance: 16km
Stay
Guimarães, Casa Velhinha 60€ via Booking.com Or +351 962549954 direct (say you are a pilgrim). Very lovely room with a small balcony window overlooking a quiet street. Great hostess, good comms on WhatsApp.
Eat: I had a super lunch with the locals at Mumadona (passed on the way in to centre just past the Convento do Carmo)
Walk
Leaving early on a weekday I encountered a fair amount of traffic for the first few kms. Soon onto the cycle trail and a very easy walking until it ends as you see Guimarães before you.
I loved wandering Guimarães streets, people watching, pastel de nata eating and a little bit of shopping.
Day 16. Guimarães – Braga
Date: Sept28
Distance: 23km [then taxi to Amarante]
Stay
Braga, Sé Apartments 2 nights via Booking.com +351 304503190 Lovely room with a small balcony window overlooking Largo do Paço. Great hostess, good comms on whatsapp.
Eat: Because Braga is very touristy, I like to find somewhere more ‘local’ style. I discovered a lovely lunchtime menu at Botafogo in Avenida Cental.
Walk
Last day for MY Camino Torres. Beginning the day from Guimaraes in the dark through the outer suburbs, I finally took a wee break for coffee at 9km in Caldas after a mix of road walking, cobbles and riverside.
Around 3 hours in, the path became steeper with large stones, reminiscent of roman roads. Once you pass the church at the top on your left and walk through the carpark to the main road, look to your right to find a ‘break’ in the road barrier. Behind this is the actual camino, which avoids walking on the busy road. If there is no ‘open’ spot in the barrier, walk down the road to the right a little and climb the barrier on the left of the road to find the camino.
At the bottom of this path, it’s only 4km to Braga, mostly through outer suburbs. I rested 2 nights in Braga and then began my next camino, the Camino Geira e dos Arrieiros, another 240km to Santiago.
In Summary
The Torres from Salamanca to Braga is now at the top of my list of favourite Caminos. I suspect that the Geira might have displaced it … if the weather had been kinder wink
I loved the early Torres days in Spain, meeting the sweet albergue-ladies and enjoying the flatlands of the Cañada Real.
Portugal stages were a little longer and steeper but oh so pretty with the variety of agriculture from apples and chestnuts to the Douro wines.
The food in the small Tascas was always super delicious and well priced.
Although Portugal does not have many albergues, it was super fun to stay in Beira Valente and Pombeiro to enjoy the solitude.